The Refugees by the Lake, a Greek Migrant Story

A still from Behind the Haystacks, written and directed by Asimina Proedrou (all photos George Lycoudis).

8 MAY 2023 • By Iason Athanasiadis
Migrants passing through the Greek-Northern Macedonian border unstitch an introverted community’s suppressed strains in ascendant Greek cinema’s much-awarded latest offering. Behind the Haystacks, written and directed by Asimina Proedrou, has just landed an unprecedented 17 nominations to the Greek Cinema Academy Awards.

 

Iason Athanasiadis

 

Stergios lives a pretty typical life in a village around the dazzling Doïrani (or Dojran) Lake shared between Greece and Northern Macedonia. He argues with other farmers over financials in the local farmers’ cooperative, drives his large truck to the lakeshore to fish, and frequents the out-of-town strip joint. His wife fears him and his daughter alternates between affection, meticulous concealment of her private life, and eventually defiance. This sets the scene for a tragic denouement among the reed beds of the unearthly lake.

“I wanted to make a film about how society pressures everyday people and their social relations and forces them into crushing decisions and corruption,” first-time director Asimina Proedrou explained during a recent conversation, “but without absolving them of responsibility.”

Proedrou sets her bleak tale — about how the lines of refugees winding their way from a crushed Middle East to a prosperous northern Europe impact an isolated community — in a misty wetland of the Balkan periphery. A gendered narration frames the encounter between the Greek community and the cultural and geographic outsiders, with the three main characters contributing partial and non-consecutive perspectives on the parallel processes of greed, compassion and rivalry that escalate to the film’s climactic purge.

Few films in Greece have been made about the 2015 refugee crisis, but Behind the Haystacks seems to have struck a chord, winning prizes at the Thessaloniki and Goa film festivals, enjoying a four-month run at Greek cinemas, and winning 17 nominations at the Greek Cinema Academy Awards, an all-time high. Its immersive plunge into the collision of different worlds is now set for European cinema distribution, online streaming and television broadcast through cofunders Arte and ZDF.


Releasing the refugee genie

It is 2015, and Berlin has decided to mix the practical with the ethical: replenish its ageing labor force with fresh bodies and minds, while making a global broadcast of German virtue at a time when millions of refugees fleeing the aftermath of the Arab Spring and US occupations in Afghanistan and Iraq search for refuge. But as months pass and the refugee flows show no sign of abating, the original images of deliriously smiling citizens crowding into railway stations to greet crowds arriving from war-scarred regions are replaced with cultural clashes in German towns and the electoral rise of the Far Right. Politicians apprehensively realize that they may have let an irrepressible genie out of the bottle, and strike a deal with Turkey to close down the flows, angering those EU member states located between Turkey and the German border which must deal with the repercussions of the deal going wrong.

Stergios lives in a village on Doïrani Lake, a secluded habitat straddling the Greek-North Macedonia border that the closed borders transform into a sizzling hotspot. Driving back from a regular visit into North Macedonia, he hears on the car radio that Germany is shutting access to refugees. The decision sets a domino motion of closures from Austria through to the Balkans, snapping a new Fortress Europe into place. As North Macedonia shuts its own borders to migrants seeking to enter from Greece, fresh human waves pile up against the border, creating the once-notorious Idomeni camp but also a lucrative smuggling opportunity for Stergios.

A still from Behind the Haystacks, written and directed by Asimina Proedrou.


Secrets of the swamp

Rather than a non-place, Doïrani is mired in the secret and suppressed histories illuminating the unpalatable side of how nation-states are stitched together. Its residents were batted back and forth by battles of possession between empires, nation-states and now liquid modernity. Today’s village residents are the descendants of the Greek-speaking Christian populations of the Pontic Black Sea, swapped between Greece and Turkey in 1923 and settled in formerly Slav-populated regions of northern Greece to Hellenize them. Conflict scattered their predecessors — whether Slavs and Bulgarians fleeing the Greek Army, or Greeks joining refugee lines to nearby Thessaloniki during the short-lived Kingdom of Serbia.

“I wanted to also register the other side’s music — the so-called Yugoslavika played with an accordion – in a small reference to [Serbian film director Emir] Kusturica, and also included in the celebration scene Makedonitika songs,” said Proedrou in our interview for The Markaz Review. “Initially I used the music just to signpost the region, but realizing the great commonalities between northern Macedonian, Yugoslav and Greek songs, I sought to highlight how all these cultural elements coexist on all sides of the borders.”

Signs of the disturbed past survive into today’s village: British and Greek First World War-era cemeteries, a disused railway station, and a Customs building demarcating the border. All form gateways: soldiers and settlers arrived on the train; the graveyards embraced those who perished in the conflict; while the Customs building selling expensive western liquors and cigarettes holds the promise of a future prosperity postponed for decades by a semantic struggle between Athens and Skopje over their mutual claim to the name Macedonia.

A still from Behind the Haystacks, written and directed by Asimina Proedrou.

This is the historical minefield into which the refugees wander. Blocked off in their ramshackle camp and absorbed by the struggle to move forward, they will witness far less of the intimacies of the land than the film’s viewer, for whom director Proedrou conjures up a set of characters engaged in ancient traditions — from dancing through the village in animal hides during the ancient Momogeri ritual reintroduced in the 1920s by Pontic refugees, to an intoxicated, topless, all-male, feast-day sing-along. Throughout the film, the dictates of the overarching institutions that govern society — blood, borders and belief — invisibly drive the plot forward.

 

Cross-border dimensions

Stergios’ wife, the devout Maria, helps out at the local church. The women there are split on whether to help the mostly Muslim refugees. Maria, whom the priest has assigned fundraising for church repairs and to lay down his anti-Muslim line among the other women, is drawn to the parallel world of the cardboard and plastic waste refugee settlement that springs up locally, a wild place flourishing up against the border, for as long as hope remains that the gates will eventually reopen. While there, she scolds a woman she knows from the church for handing out food: helping the refugees is a sin, she says, echoing the priest.

Meanwhile Stergios, who faces jail time due to tax trouble with the authorities, sees an income opportunity in the closing of the borders. Along with his brother-in-law, they start shipping boatloads of refugees to the lake’s northern Macedonian shore. At €1,000 a passenger, business is good. Stergios can afford to contribute handsomely to church repairs and buy his daughter the new smartphone she craves. But one night, the boat overturns and lives are lost. From that moment on, time ticks down on the protagonists.

“It’s a film about how a corrupt society reproduces itself,” Proedrou explained, “and about how ordinary people are trapped inside a corrupt system that reproduces conservative behaviors.”

The EU’s monumental 2015 refugee opening has not figured in film much, perhaps due to its ambiguous and ongoing legacy. Behind the Haystacks succeeds in the harder task of harnessing the affair to an examination of what effect the newcomers had on the Balkan hinterlands’ historically disregarded communities. Along the way, it reveals how slight the cultural distance is between locals and refugees, despite mutual prejudices. Although the migration angle was sparked by chance conversations that Proedrou had with refugees staying in the Doïrani village hotel during a reccie [film industry jargon for “reconnaissance”], it evolved into the film’s narrative backbone.

The film’s shakily moving handheld camera and tight, shallow-focused frames move the action along atmospherically but they are also the result of a threadbare budget. Proedrou and her team achieved their shots by employing techniques like multiple camera angles and frequent changes of their sparse extras’ outfits. Matched with the brooding winter weather and humble village homes, the film elicits a claustrophobic atmosphere that conveys us along the jagged chunks of storyline we are called upon to arrange.

“I was always bewitched by cross-border stories because they have an added symbolism and dimension,” said Proedrou. “They depart from the local and acquire a more ecumenical character.”

Behind the Haystacks presents a Balkan tale in the time of resurgent geopolitics; and the unintended interplays exerted by two refugee communities — one just-uprooted, the other settled in the traces of a banished third — on each other.

 

Iason Athanasiadis

Iason Athanasiadis is a Mediterranean-focused multimedia journalist based between Athens, Istanbul, and Tunis. He uses all media to recount the story of how we can adapt to the era of climate change, mass migration, and the misapplication of distorted modernities. He studied... Read more

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Fiction

Nektaria Anastasiadou: “Gold in Taksim Square”

15 JUNE 2022 • By Nektaria Anastasiadou
Nektaria Anastasiadou: “Gold in Taksim Square”
Essays

Barrak Alzaid: “Pink and Blue”

15 JUNE 2022 • By Barrak Alzaid
Barrak Alzaid: “Pink and Blue”
Film Reviews

2022 Webby Honoree Documents Queer Turkish Icon

23 MAY 2022 • By Ilker Hepkaner
2022 Webby Honoree Documents Queer Turkish Icon
Book Reviews

Fragmented Love in Alison Glick’s “The Other End of the Sea”

16 MAY 2022 • By Nora Lester Murad
Fragmented Love in Alison Glick’s “The Other End of the Sea”
Columns

Ma’moul: Toward a Philosophy of Food

15 APRIL 2022 • By Fadi Kattan
Ma’moul: Toward a Philosophy of Food
Columns

Libyan, Palestinian and Syrian Family Dinners in London

15 APRIL 2022 • By Layla Maghribi
Libyan, Palestinian and Syrian Family Dinners in London
Book Reviews

Mohamed Metwalli’s “A Song by the Aegean Sea” Reviewed

28 MARCH 2022 • By Sherine Elbanhawy
Mohamed Metwalli’s “A Song by the Aegean Sea” Reviewed
Essays

Mariupol, Ukraine and the Crime of Hospital Bombing

17 MARCH 2022 • By Neve Gordon, Nicola Perugini
Mariupol, Ukraine and the Crime of Hospital Bombing
Poetry

Three Poems of Love and Desire by Nouri Al-Jarrah

15 MARCH 2022 • By Nouri Al-Jarrah
Three Poems of Love and Desire by Nouri Al-Jarrah
Art

Fiction: “Skin Calluses” by Khalil Younes

15 MARCH 2022 • By Khalil Younes
Fiction: “Skin Calluses” by Khalil Younes
Art & Photography

On “True Love Leaves No Traces”

15 MARCH 2022 • By Arie Amaya-Akkermans
On “True Love Leaves No Traces”
Opinion

Ukraine War Reminds Refugees Some Are More Equal Than Others

7 MARCH 2022 • By Anna Lekas Miller
Ukraine War Reminds Refugees Some Are More Equal Than Others
Columns

“There’s Nothing Worse Than War”

24 FEBRUARY 2022 • By Jordan Elgrably
“There’s Nothing Worse Than War”
Editorial

Refuge, or the Inherent Dignity of Every Human Being

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Jordan Elgrably
Refuge, or the Inherent Dignity of Every Human Being
Art & Photography

Children in Search of Refuge: a Photographic Essay

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Iason Athanasiadis
Children in Search of Refuge: a Photographic Essay
Columns

Getting to the Other Side: a Kurdish Migrant Story

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Iason Athanasiadis
Getting to the Other Side: a Kurdish Migrant Story
Film Reviews

“Europa,” Iraq’s Entry in the 94th annual Oscars, Frames Epic Refugee Struggle

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Thomas Dallal
“Europa,” Iraq’s Entry in the 94th annual Oscars, Frames Epic Refugee Struggle
Featured article

Settling: Towards an Arabic translation of the English word “Home”

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Hisham Bustani, Alice Guthrie
Settling: Towards an Arabic translation of the English word “Home”
Featured excerpt

The Displaced, the Unwanted, by Viet Thanh Nguyen

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Viet Thanh Nguyen
Fiction

Fiction: Refugees in Serbia, an excerpt from “Silence is a Sense” by Layla AlAmmar

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Layla AlAmmar
Fiction: Refugees in Serbia, an excerpt from “Silence is a Sense” by Layla AlAmmar
Book Reviews

Temptations of the Imagination: how Jana Elhassan and Samar Yazbek transmogrify the world

10 JANUARY 2022 • By Rana Asfour
Temptations of the Imagination: how Jana Elhassan and Samar Yazbek transmogrify the world
Fiction

Three Levantine Tales

15 DECEMBER 2021 • By Nouha Homad
Three Levantine Tales
Essays

Syria Through British Eyes

29 NOVEMBER 2021 • By Rana Haddad
Syria Through British Eyes
Columns

Burning Forests, Burning Nations

15 NOVEMBER 2021 • By Hadani Ditmars
Burning Forests, Burning Nations
Book Reviews

The Vanishing: Are Arab Christians an Endangered Minority?

15 NOVEMBER 2021 • By Hadani Ditmars
The Vanishing: Are Arab Christians an Endangered Minority?
Columns

Day of the Imprisoned Writer — November 15, 2021

8 NOVEMBER 2021 • By TMR
Day of the Imprisoned Writer — November 15, 2021
Columns

Refugees Detained in Thessonaliki’s Diavata Camp Await Asylum

1 NOVEMBER 2021 • By Iason Athanasiadis
Refugees Detained in Thessonaliki’s Diavata Camp Await Asylum
Fiction

“The Passion of Evangelina”—fiction from Anthoney Dimos

15 OCTOBER 2021 • By Anthoney Dimos
“The Passion of Evangelina”—fiction from Anthoney Dimos
Interviews

Interview With Prisoner X, Accused by the Bashar Al-Assad Regime of Terrorism

15 OCTOBER 2021 • By Jordan Elgrably
Interview With Prisoner X, Accused by the Bashar Al-Assad Regime of Terrorism
Columns

Kurdish Poet and Writer Meral Şimşek Merits Her Freedom

4 OCTOBER 2021 • By Jordan Elgrably
Kurdish Poet and Writer Meral Şimşek Merits Her Freedom
Art & Photography

Displaced: From Beirut to Los Angeles to Beirut

15 SEPTEMBER 2021 • By Ara Oshagan
Displaced: From Beirut to Los Angeles to Beirut
Essays

Why Resistance Is Foundational to Kurdish Literature

15 SEPTEMBER 2021 • By Ava Homa
Why Resistance Is Foundational to Kurdish Literature
Latest Reviews

The Limits of Empathy in Rabih Alameddine’s Refugee Saga

15 SEPTEMBER 2021 • By Dima Alzayat
The Limits of Empathy in Rabih Alameddine’s Refugee Saga
Latest Reviews

Women Comic Artists, from Afghanistan to Morocco

15 AUGUST 2021 • By Sherine Hamdy
Women Comic Artists, from Afghanistan to Morocco
Latest Reviews

An Anthropologist Tells of 1970s Upheaval in “Turkish Kaleidoscope”

15 AUGUST 2021 • By Jenny White
An Anthropologist Tells of 1970s Upheaval in “Turkish Kaleidoscope”
Weekly

World Picks: August 2021

12 AUGUST 2021 • By Lawrence Joffe
World Picks: August 2021
Weekly

Summer of ‘21 Reading—Notes from the Editors

25 JULY 2021 • By TMR
Summer of ‘21 Reading—Notes from the Editors
Essays

Sailing to Gaza to Break the Siege

14 JULY 2021 • By Greta Berlin
Sailing to Gaza to Break the Siege
Book Reviews

ISIS and the Absurdity of War in the Age of Twitter

4 JULY 2021 • By Jessica Proett
ISIS and the Absurdity of War in the Age of Twitter
Weekly

World Picks: July 2021

3 JULY 2021 • By TMR
World Picks: July 2021
Essays

Syria’s Ruling Elite— A Master Class in Wasta

14 JUNE 2021 • By Lawrence Joffe
Syria’s Ruling Elite— A Master Class in Wasta
Weekly

The Maps of Our Destruction: Two Novels on Syria

30 MAY 2021 • By Rana Asfour
The Maps of Our Destruction: Two Novels on Syria
Essays

We Are All at the Border Now

14 MAY 2021 • By Todd Miller
We Are All at the Border Now
Fiction

A Home Across the Azure Sea

14 MAY 2021 • By Aida Y. Haddad
A Home Across the Azure Sea
Essays

From Damascus to Birmingham, a Selected Glossary

14 MAY 2021 • By Frances Zaid
From Damascus to Birmingham, a Selected Glossary
Weekly

Beirut Brings a Fragmented Family Together in “The Arsonists’ City”

9 MAY 2021 • By Rana Asfour
Columns

Academics Decry French Attacks on “Islamo-Leftists”

14 MARCH 2021 • By TMR
Academics Decry French Attacks on “Islamo-Leftists”
Columns

Memory and the Assassination of Lokman Slim

14 MARCH 2021 • By Claire Launchbury
Memory and the Assassination of Lokman Slim
Poetry

The Freedom You Want

14 MARCH 2021 • By Mohja Kahf
The Freedom You Want
Interviews

The Hidden World of Istanbul’s Rums

21 FEBRUARY 2021 • By Rana Haddad
The Hidden World of Istanbul’s Rums
TMR 6 • Revolutions

The Revolution Sees its Shadow 10 Years Later

14 FEBRUARY 2021 • By Mischa Geracoulis
The Revolution Sees its Shadow 10 Years Later
TMR 6 • Revolutions

Ten Years of Hope and Blood

14 FEBRUARY 2021 • By Robert Solé
Ten Years of Hope and Blood
TMR 5 • Water

Watch Water Films & Donate to Water Organizations

16 JANUARY 2021 • By TMR
Watch Water Films & Donate to Water Organizations
Film Reviews

Muhammad Malas, Syria’s Auteur, is the subject of a Film Biography

10 JANUARY 2021 • By Rana Asfour
Muhammad Malas, Syria’s Auteur, is the subject of a Film Biography
Weekly

Academics, Signatories, and Putschists

20 DECEMBER 2020 • By Selim Temo
Academics, Signatories, and Putschists
TMR 4 • Small & Indie Presses

Trembling Landscapes: Between Reality and Fiction: Eleven Artists from the Middle East*

14 DECEMBER 2020 • By Nat Muller
Trembling Landscapes: Between Reality and Fiction: Eleven Artists from the Middle East*
TMR 4 • Small & Indie Presses

Freedom is femininity: Faraj Bayrakdar

14 DECEMBER 2020 • By Faraj Bayrakdar
Freedom is femininity: Faraj Bayrakdar
Weekly

Breathing in a Plague

27 NOVEMBER 2020 • By TMR
Breathing in a Plague
TMR 3 • Racism & Identity

Why is Arabic Provoking such Controversy in France?

15 NOVEMBER 2020 • By Melissa Chemam
Why is Arabic Provoking such Controversy in France?
Book Reviews

Poetic Exploration of Illness Conveys Trauma

14 SEPTEMBER 2020 • By India Hixon Radfar
Poetic Exploration of Illness Conveys Trauma

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