Refugees of Afghanistan in Iran: a Photo Essay by Peyman Hooshmandzadeh

Afghan refugee children, photographed by Peyman Hooshmandzadeh.

15 JANUARY 2022 • By Peyman Hooshmandzadeh, Salar Abdoh
Afghan refugee children, photographed by Peyman Hooshmandzadeh.

 

Peyman Hooshmandzadeh (photos and text)

Translated from the Persian by Salar Abdoh

In Iran, Afghan refugees have been a part our everyday lives for over four decades now. Their stories amaze and trouble us, and probably more so because their land is so near and in so many ways they could be us — their language, their frames of reference to classical Persian verse, their heroes from our shared mythologies. And yet, running into this particular group of refugees in a manmade nowhereland just a stone’s throw away from the Caspian Sea —not more than four kilometers from an amusement park by the beach —stunned us day trippers into a retreat.

We had taken the backroads to reach somewhere quiet where we could go swimming. Now we suddenly were surrounded by these families who spoke an almost otherworldly iteration of our shared language.

They immediately took us for journalists who had come to interview them. Their wants were basic — water, when they (a landlocked nation) were not more than a few minutes’ drive from the sea; electricity, when a power relay station was barely a hundred meters off; and, of course, a place where they could rest at nights and not have to worry about sand from the sea blowing into their sleep.

Their world away from the world was made of bamboo and sand. This was the north and they looked like no one from the north of the country. It took only a minute to realize who they were, though why they were there and how they had gotten there was a mystery. We were too nonplussed to ask them anything. It was they who did the asking, believing that surely we had come to report on their woeful conditions and somehow save them.

The odd convergence of intent and reality silenced us. Yes, we were writers and photographers. But we had come here not to report or write today; instead we were here to get wasted on booze and swim a little. We were on a brief holiday. Yet the ever-present camera in my hand made these families certain we had come to inquire about their lives. Children surrounded us, each pulling us toward their own rickety hut.

We were veterans of these images. I for one had already travelled to Afghanistan more than once on shooting assignments. But in that summer of 1998, when I still used negatives for picture taking, and the Taliban were firmly in control of most of their country and it would be a long time yet before the Americans made their ruinous entry, we had imagined, and rightly so, that the Caspian shore would be the absolute last place in Iran where we’d find a gathering of completely isolated refugees. It was as if time itself, and certainly the authorities, had utterly forgotten about this place.

We slowly began to withdraw — not toward the intended beach, but the way we’d come. An afternoon of debauchery was certainly out of the question now. We wore the unbearable guilt of men and women who would shortly go back to the routines of their comfortable lives at the capital. And when the refugees asked if we would make their voices heard in that faraway place, we nodded our heads and said yes, we surely we would.

We never did.

 

Peyman Hooshmandzadeh

Peyman Hooshmandzadeh Peyman Hooshmandzadeh is a photographer, born in Tehran, Iran, in 1969. He has a BA in photography from Azad University. Since his first exhibition in 1995, Hooshmandzadeh has had over eighty solo exhibitions and has participated in numerous group shows,... Read more

Salar Abdoh

Salar Abdoh Salar Abdoh is an Iranian novelist, essayist and translator, who divides his time between New York and Tehran. He is the author of the novels Poet Game (2000), Opium (2004), Tehran at Twilight (2014), and Out of Mesopotamia (2020) and the editor of... Read more

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25 JULY 2021 • By TMR
Summer of ‘21 Reading—Notes from the Editors
Latest Reviews

No Exit

14 JULY 2021 • By Allam Zedan
No Exit
Weekly

The Unfinished Presidency of Jimmy Carter

4 JULY 2021 • By Maryam Zar
The Unfinished Presidency of Jimmy Carter
Book Reviews

ISIS and the Absurdity of War in the Age of Twitter

4 JULY 2021 • By Jessica Proett
ISIS and the Absurdity of War in the Age of Twitter
Editorial

Why WALLS?

14 MAY 2021 • By Jordan Elgrably
Why WALLS?
Art

The Murals of “Education is Not a Crime”

14 MAY 2021 • By Saleem Vaillancourt
The Murals of “Education is Not a Crime”
Fiction

A Home Across the Azure Sea

14 MAY 2021 • By Aida Y. Haddad
A Home Across the Azure Sea
Essays

From Damascus to Birmingham, a Selected Glossary

14 MAY 2021 • By Frances Zaid
From Damascus to Birmingham, a Selected Glossary
TMR 7 • Truth?

The Crash, Covid-19 and Other Iranian Stories

14 MARCH 2021 • By Malu Halasa
The Crash, Covid-19 and Other Iranian Stories
TMR 6 • Revolutions

The Revolution Sees its Shadow 10 Years Later

14 FEBRUARY 2021 • By Mischa Geracoulis
The Revolution Sees its Shadow 10 Years Later
TMR 4 • Small & Indie Presses

Hassan Blasim’s “God 99”

14 DECEMBER 2020 • By Hassan Blasim
Hassan Blasim’s “God 99”

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