{"id":32349,"date":"2024-04-01T19:49:45","date_gmt":"2024-04-01T17:49:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldsite\/?p=32349"},"modified":"2024-04-03T08:57:32","modified_gmt":"2024-04-03T06:57:32","slug":"paris-of-the-middle-east-fiction-by-mk-harb","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldsite\/paris-of-the-middle-east-fiction-by-mk-harb\/","title":{"rendered":"&#8220;Paris of the Middle East&#8221;\u2014fiction by MK Harb"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As a city drains, tempers flare, and friends say goodbye with things signifying home: tarot cards and a recipe for pickled turnips. A new short story from Beirut.<\/span><\/h5>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">MK Harb<\/span><\/h4>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We waited for Kareema at the veranda of Cantina Sociale under a rusted fan that carried within it more noise than a breeze. I took off my sandals, placing my feet on the faded terrazzo tiles, wishing for a coolness to go through my spine. I turned to the waiter and said, \u201cYou might as well switch this fan off. Is it an antique from <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Basta<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">?\u201d He smirked and walked away placing an <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ibrik, a traditional water jug, <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">filled with mint lemonade on the table of the lady on our left. She wore these professorial circular glasses and on her turquoise vest, which furthered the heat of August, was a golden swan brooch pinned to the right side of her chest. She was consumed by a book for what seemed to be hours \u2014 I interrupted her and asked: \u201cWhat are you reading?\u201d Sari nudged me with his right elbow to remind me not to talk to strangers. The woman mumbled something in French and all I could make out were the words \u201c\u00e9trange\u201d and \u201cBeyrouth.\u201d I nodded in fake knowing and looked back to Sari.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI know we\u2019re in Sassine, but replying to me in French?\u201d I said.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cLet her live her fantasy. It\u2019s Sunday,\u201d Sari said in a contained politeness.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A short while later Kareema arrived with a breeze. Somehow despite all the aging that has passed around us in Beirut, she still was the same, with dove-like hazel eyes, a posture elongated with years of Pilates at a studio in Hamra, and hair fresher than the lemonade in the <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ibrik<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. She placed her tote bag on the table, gave us a drenched hug, took her Ray-Ban sunglasses off and said: \u201cWow, it\u2019s more humid than Dubai this August.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cExactly, but without the money. How cruel is that?\u201d I said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cSo cruel,\u201d she said, proceeding to kiss me on my right cheek. She waived at the waiter to get her usual, shanklish dip, rosemary chips and a glass of <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Merweh <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">wine. She sat next to Sari, squeezing his right hand and said, \u201cSoooo, Paris? How exciting!\u201d \u2014 Sari had just left his job teaching anthropology at the American University of Beirut, securing a \u201ctalent passport\u201d and a ticket out of Lebanon. He was to become a performance artist in Paris.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cSoon he\u2019ll be at all these chichi parties playing Habibi funk music,\u201d I said, with the bitterness of knowing that this is the third friend I\u2019ve lost to a talent passport.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI\u2019m not a cold brew hipster,\u201d Sari said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kareema opened her iPhone, which had a quote by Rumi on its screen. <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Yesterday I was clever so I wanted to change the world; Today I am wise, so I am changing myself<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. \u201cWell, I have the party for you,\u201d she said, proceeding to show us a video of these pretty little things dancing and drinking under bright green trees. \u201cThis is the Rosa Bonheur gathering in Buttes Chaumont park, in Paris, in Belleville; so many artists and cool people go there. You have to go the Saturday after you arrive, Sari,\u201d she said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI am not sure I\u2019ll have the energy for bears and otters upon arrival \u2026\u201d Sari said, \u201cbut it\u2019s definitely on my list now.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The waiter came with the <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Merweh <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">wine, yellow with an orange tinge, and Kareema sipped it with a euphoric, \u201cHmmm.\u201d She asked me to try it, which I did.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cFruity and a bit nutty,\u201d I said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cYes, you know <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Merweh<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> is an indigenous plant to Lebanon,\u201d she replied.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cThe only thing indigenous to Lebanon is immigration,\u201d I said, ruffling Sari\u2019s hair.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kareema laughed and said, \u201cI was reading about it\u2019s history. Turns out it was grown all over Mount Lebanon, but during French colonialism it was replaced with olive and mulberry trees which were more lucrative. But this guy from Batroun has found them in four villages, which he\u2019s keeping secret. It\u2019s so good that it won an award last year for best Mediterranean wine!\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cBravo!\u201d I said, turning my gaze to Saleem, arriving in time for his afternoon shift. He wore a tight white shirt, round collar with three beige buttons, accentuated with a bronze honed with Sunday visits to Sporting beach. We had this unspoken romance for a year now, and somehow both of us could not muster the courage to talk beyond his obsession with Turkish pop. He walked towards us, my flustering increasing with his footsteps, and stood over the table like a little demigod. \u201cShu Sari, I heard you\u2019re moving to France like the rest of them?\u201d he said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cYes, I left Ras Beirut and came to Achrafieh for the day to prepare myself mentally,\u201d Sari replied.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Saleem smiled at me and asked: \u201cAnother round, A\u015fk\u0131m?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cYes, get us that indigenous grape,\u201d I said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cBitch,\u201d Kareema whispered.<\/span><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><iframe loading=\"lazy\" title=\"&quot;Paris of the Middle East&quot;\u2014fiction from MK HARB\" src=\"https:\/\/player.vimeo.com\/video\/930151527?dnt=1&amp;app_id=122963\" width=\"563\" height=\"1000\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"autoplay; fullscreen; picture-in-picture; clipboard-write\"><\/iframe><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kareema opened her tote bag and took out all these whimsical items for Sari. \u201cA care package for France,\u201d she said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A recipe for pickled turnips for when it gets too cold or too lonely. Things that are good for the heart are bitter.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/i><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A year\u2019s worth of vitamin D from Mazen Pharmacy. \u201cHe needs another kind of vitamin D. Last time he got laid the dollar was still at 1500 lira,\u201d I said, opening the boxes and taking one for me.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/i><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Half a kilo of Turkish coffee from Bin Tafesh.<br \/>\n<\/span><\/i><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A piece of pine from the Chouf Mountains.\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cHe\u2019s only moving four hours away from here, not taking a steamboat to 19<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">th<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> century Brazil!\u201d I said. \u201cPlus, there are more Lebanese grocers in Paris than there are in Beirut now. Apparently, they even have <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bouzet Bachir<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and over there they think its gourmet ice cream!\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sari shushed me and said, \u201cThank you, Kareema these are beyond thoughtful. Malek is just spiraling because he\u2019s going to miss me.\u201d It was true I was going to miss him.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWell, it\u2019s time for tarot cards. I got a deck so we can see what\u2019s in the works for you by the time you get there. Especially since you\u2019re arriving with a wolf moon,\u201d said Kareema.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI\u2019m going to let you guys enjoy that,\u201d I said, turning over to the people around me. On my right a girl nervously typed on her laptop which had a sticker in black and white: psychoanalysis and communism. I figured she must be a film student at ALBA. Behind her was a daddy wearing Vilebrequin trunks with dolphins swimming across his torso. He caught my glance and smiled in that naughty, \u201cthis is summer in Beirut\u201d sort of way. I waved my right arm across my face and said: \u201cUff shu shob\u201d \u2014 so hot!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">At the foot of the stairs lay Kalamanteen, the Cantina\u2019s resident Rottweiler, his eyes droopy and relaxed. A man outside on the street sent a very loud voice note \u2014 <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Khalas eh she can pay the down payment through a ch\u00e8que bancaire<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Someone had sprayed \u201cwoman life freedom\u201d on the road block behind him, but I doubt he noticed it. On the other side of the road, three men in dreadfully colorful glasses, guava, maroon, and yellow, were having some quiche and coffee at Des Choux Et Des Id\u00e9es. A munching sound entered my ears and returning to the veranda, it was the professor snacking on carrots dipped in lemon water and cumin. She finished reading her book and a slight shimmering light danced on the swan pinned to her. She looked over and waved at a tall man in a light blue chemise open to its middle. His chest wore a rosy sunburn. He approached her and asked: \u201cJeanette?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cAh yes Jason, welcome,\u201d she replied, inviting him to her table. Saleem approached them and recommended the Turkish menemen eggs and some Ksarra wine. Jason uttered a hungry, \u201cSounds amazing.\u201d Jeanette took out a cigarette and began speaking in a more spirited manner while Jason held a nervous corporate smile. At first, I thought she might be attracted to him, but then I realized she was in love with her own voice, and the stories she carried within her. Now was one of those rare chances to bring them out of the archive.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cSo, tell me more about this article you\u2019re writing,\u201d she said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWell, I\u2019ve always heard about the promise of this city and a friend of mine told me things are supposed to be shaping up after the economic crisis. So, I pitched an article to the New York Times called \u2018The Eternal Magic of Beirut\u2019 and I\u2019m here to sniff out some of that magic,\u201d he said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cYes, indeed it\u2019s an enchanted city,\u201d Jeanette affirmed, \u201cand if you look around things are back to some degree of normal.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Hearing this delusion, I was about to stand up and yell, \u201cWhat normal? A man on a motorcycle shot his gun at the attendants of the gas station I was at yesterday. \u201cThis is for being too slow,\u201d he hollered as he fired. But I stayed calm for the sake of Sari.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">At some point Jason took out a black moleskin notebook, scribbling and nodding while Jeanette waxed poetically about the contemporary art scene in Beirut. \u201cDid you know there is an original G\u00e9r\u00f4me painting at the Saint Georges cathedral in Centre Ville?\u201d Jeanette said, \u201cIt\u2019s not open for public view, but the priest there likes me, so we can go sometime to see it.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cSo many muses tucked in the corners of this city,\u201d Jason said. \u201cSo tell me, what does Beirut mean to you?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cBeyrouth is the air I breathe, the skin I live in. It has been destroyed seven times and it still rises like the phoenix,\u201d she said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cNot the fucking phoenix,\u201d I mumbled.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cDid you say something?\u201d Sari asked.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cNo habibi, go back to the cards,\u201d I said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kareema\u2019s smile was wide and her eyes hypnotic and between her fingers a blue goddess received a revelation from a pearly white moon. \u201cThis card invites you to regard your life with compassion,\u201d she said to Sari and I turned back to Jason and Jeanette\u2019s rendezvous.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cOn a more political note, we\u2019re surrounded by a youthful energy \u2014 even in this caf\u00e9 you\u2019d think you\u2019re at a startup incubator,\u201d Jason said. \u201cWhat about them? Isn\u2019t their government failing them?\u201d \u2014 this was no startup incubator; they were here because Cantina Sociale is the only caf\u00e9 with 24\/7 electricity and wi-fi. But Jeanette hid that little knickknack of reality.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cAll these kids here are like my students, even if they are not, and I wish nothing but the best for them. You see, we Lebanese have the same values like westerners and we expect the same high standards like social welfare, education, big museums, public beaches. But the problem is our government is a Third World country,\u201d said Jeanette, eating the last of the carrot. My feet were about to cause an earthquake in the ground below us, but again for the sake of Sari, I kept my cool.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI have to say despite it all, the magnetic pull of this city is undeniable. I\u2019m thinking of moving here and taking a stab at a career,\u201d Jason said. \u201cWhat about the neighborhoods? Can you talk to me about your favorite architectural features?\u201d he asked.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWell instead of talking, let\u2019s get the bill and I will walk you around and show you some of my favorite buildings and corners. You know Beirut used to be called \u2018the Paris of the Middle East\u2019 and in some aspects, it still is,\u201d Jeanette said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cI\u2019d love a walk,\u201d Jason replied and I wondered which Haussmann buildings are they seeing that I am not?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Saleem got them the bill, Jeanette said \u201cmerci,\u201d and I was going to let them enjoy their Parisian fl\u00e2nerie, but a voice in my head compelled me to talk.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cYou know Beirut is many things. Maybe the Norfolk of the Middle East, but not the Paris of the Middle East for sure,\u201d I said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jeanette turned back, gave me a confounded gaze and said, \u201cPardon, monsieur.\u201d Jason stood awkwardly in that I\u2019m an American in Beirut stillness. Sari and Kareema returned from whatever third dimension they were in with a worry. Sari spoke with a solemn voice, <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">please Malek, not now<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cJason, do you know that Beirut has a river?\u201d I asked.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cOh, that\u2019s a revelation,\u201d he said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cYes, but it\u2019s not like the Seine. It\u2019s dried up and in between its ravaged Sahara aridness there are pockets of sewage,\u201d I said, \u201cdoes that seem magical?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWell, Paris has some pollution issues too,\u201d he said, attempting to control the situation.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jeanette smirked and said, \u201cPlease ignore him, Jason. Some people just can\u2019t look on the bright side.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cJeanette, I want to correct a fact. Beirut turned over eight times. The last time being on August 4<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">th<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and, no, we have not risen like the phoenix since that day. Would such \u2018Third-World\u2019 impunity be allowed in Paris?\u201d I said, slamming the table and when my hands hit the cracked wood, I realized I was spinning out faster than the fan above me. I heard Kareema say, \u201cIs he intermittent fasting? He gets like this when his blood sugar drops,\u201d and in that moment I realized that these friends who notice and accept my varied temperaments are leaving. To Paris, to Dubai, to London, the quiet suburb and the other city, and I might be left here walking like a zombie through the streets of Beirut telling people that there once was a river. I stood up, apologized to Jeanette and Jason, \u201cIt\u2019s the heat, I should have gotten some of that mint lemonade instead of a wine,\u201d I said. Sari packed his care package back into the bag, signaling at me and Kareema to head out. We walked by Jason and Jeanette, who were still lost for words and I said, \u201cPardon, madame.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We crossed over the \u201cwomen life freedom\u201d road block and stood outside Des Choux Et Des Id\u00e9es. Sari\u2019s green eyes revealed red accusatory veins in their middle and as he rolled a cigarette on the sidewalk table, wrapping the Papier de Damas around the tobacco, turned back and said: \u201c<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Khalas<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. Couldn\u2019t you just let this woman be? Who the fuck cares if she\u2019s speaking French? Half our conversations are in English, aren\u2019t they?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cThen why are you going to France?\u201d I said.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cWell, it\u2019s the only place that gave me a work visa,\u201d he replied.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u201cSo, what\u2019s next \u2014 Kareema moves to Peru to become a shaman and I\u2019m left to teach the next generation at AUB, waiting for some journalist to come interview me?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kareema moved between us and said, \u201cWe won\u2019t end Sari\u2019s last day like this. Who wants an \u00e9clair?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Sari and I nod and we walk in, sit amongst another crowd, and stay quiet for a bit. A young man in a blue apron approaches us and takes our order of rose \u00e9clairs and double chocolate sabl\u00e9. \u201cExtra sugar for this hysteric queen,\u201d says Sari. I laugh and apologize again, happy that the silence is broken. \u201cI\u2019m going to miss these outbursts,\u201d he says. My phone buzzes and I open it to find a message from Saleem. \u201cThat was quite the scene you made back there. Catherine Deneuve is still on the veranda telling people can you believe how that guy talked to me. Drinks tomorrow night?\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I smile and reply with, \u201cOui.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>With tarot cards and a recipe for pickled turnips, Beirutis bid farewell to yet another friend leaving on a \u201ctalent passport\u201d to somewhere else.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":354,"featured_media":32494,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[16,2995,3453],"tags":[323,364,3462,3465,1331,3460,3463,3461,3464],"coauthors":[2400],"class_list":["post-32349","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fiction","category-short-stories","category-tmr-40-paris","tag-beirut","tag-brain-drain","tag-emigration","tag-habibi-funk","tag-paris","tag-paris-of-the-middle-east","tag-pickled-turnips","tag-talent-drain","tag-tarot","entry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.8 (Yoast SEO v27.3) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>&quot;Paris of the Middle East&quot;\u2014fiction by MK Harb - The Markaz Review<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" 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