{"id":25932,"date":"2023-04-10T09:01:26","date_gmt":"2023-04-10T07:01:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldsite\/?p=25932"},"modified":"2023-04-10T09:05:36","modified_gmt":"2023-04-10T07:05:36","slug":"in-luxor-egypt-projects-renewed-tourism-economy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldsite\/in-luxor-egypt-projects-renewed-tourism-economy\/","title":{"rendered":"In Luxor, Egypt Projects Renewed Tourism Economy"},"content":{"rendered":"

Life in Egypt appears eerily normal, despite reports that the government is now silencing critics abroad<\/a> as well as at home, but tourism must go on to help shore up a troubled economy.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

William Carruthers<\/h4>\n

 <\/p>\n

I just got back from Luxor, Egypt. I visited immediately after the New Year\u2019s rush; my hotel was virtually empty, although I was assured that it had been full the previous week, when tour buses were still thundering up and down the road to the Valley of the Kings. For many in the city \u2014 and the country \u2014 this makes for good business: inflation is distressingly high (Reuters reported that it was 21.3% in December, although some estimates are much higher), and there is a shortage of hard currency that the presence of foreign tourists helps ameliorate. Yet it is also in accordance with the government\u2019s approach to tourism that Luxor has been taken to pieces and rebuilt, making dependence on tourist money more necessary: parts of the center of town have been ripped out entirely and are now devoted solely to the tourist dollar.<\/p>\n

Late 2021 saw the opening of the \u201cAvenue of the Sphinxes\u201d between Karnak and Luxor temples: a revivification of an ancient processional way lined with sphinx statues on pedestals. The project to excavate the avenue in its entirety \u2014 its southern terminus at Luxor had already been dug at various points from 1949 onwards \u2014 had started in the years before Egypt\u2019s 2011 revolution, but had then been put on hold. It was only under the Abdel Fattah el-Sisi regime\u2019s rush to undertake major development projects in the country that work on the avenue was finished. The route opened with a spectacular party and Sisi himself in attendance.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Avenue of the Sphinxes looking towards Karnak (photo William Carruthers).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

The avenue stretches some 2.7 kilometers, and is sunk three meters below contemporary Luxor itself. I walked down about three quarters of it, until a Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities barrier blocked my way. It was a peaceful but dispiriting experience: the parts of Luxor that once stood directly above the route \u2014 houses, shops, cemeteries \u2014 had been demolished to make way for it, yet most of the pedestals on the avenue bore no sphinxes at all. The life of the contemporary city roared away above and to my sides, yet down here there were a few other people at best: a negligible crowd for a nugatory sight.<\/p>\n

Back towards the Nile, Luxor\u2019s riverside corniche is in the process of being rebuilt by Egypt\u2019s military. This is another in any number of large-scale projects being carried out by an entity that remains unaccountable for its economic interventions, and seems designed to funnel foot traffic both onto and away from the river: the ferry crossing to the Nile\u2019s West Bank, once located right by the tourist entrance to Luxor temple, has been moved further north to an area where, one presumes, the \u201clocals\u201d who mostly use the service won\u2019t be seen to get in the way (although passengers now disembark directly opposite the hospital, which may well be more useful to them). To anyone familiar with the “management plans” enacted at World Heritage sites, this fate will not be a surprise.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Inside the Carter House (photo William Carruthers)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Over on the west bank, things often seemed as quiet as on the east. Other than a small Japanese tour group, I had the newly restored Carter House<\/a> to myself (take a 3D tour here<\/a>). The house is located at the point where the road to the Valley of the Kings branches off from the main north-south drag between pharaonic-era mortuary temples; Howard Carter, the British archaeologist and Egyptologist, lived there at points from 1910 onwards. The home was first reopened to visitors in 2009, just after the village that had once lined that main road \u2014 and sat on top of ancient burials \u2014 had been demolished: authorities had long deemed the population of Gurna, castigated as “tomb robbers,” a problem. This new restoration \u2014 opened, predictably, just in time for the 100th<\/sup> anniversary of the opening of the tomb of Tutankhamun \u2014 is no less connected to the politics of archaeology.<\/p>\n

Still, the house has been restored in a manner both understated and careful. There is a timeline of Carter\u2019s life that doesn\u2019t simply reduce him to Tut, and the Egyptian workmen who did the actual digging in the valley are dutifully acknowledged. Visiting, meanwhile, is a bit like going to one of the more interesting National Trust properties in the UK: from formal rooms to scullery, ticket-holders see everything sympathetically restored. That said, even as the \u201chousehold staff\u201d are mentioned on the kitchen\u2019s descriptive panel, of course it is Carter who is the center of attention: one presumes there was never any chance that the structure\u2019s later history as a resthouse for Egyptian antiquities inspectors would be deemed museum-worthy.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\"\"
Avenue of the Sphinxes looking towards Luxor Temple (William Carruthers).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

 <\/p>\n

Afterwards, I found myself the only visitor in the replica tomb of Tutankhamun that sits buried in the desert next to Carter\u2019s one-time home. This sort of solitude was decidedly not the desire of those involved in the facsimile\u2019s establishment. Opened in 2014, the copy \u2014 designed to induce tourists away from the fast-degrading tombs in the Valley of the Kings itself \u2014 was the work of Factum Arte, the Madrid-based conservation company whose recreations create objects \u201cwhere the line between the digital and the physical no longer exists,\u201d at least so their website claims. The facsimile is uncanny: I would not have realized I wasn\u2019t in the real tomb if I hadn\u2019t been able to see the wall of information panels about the digital scanning process involved in its creation while standing in it. As conservation interventions in Luxor go, however, I don\u2019t think that this will be the last.<\/p>\n

The panels in the facsimile explain that Factum\u2019s methods \u201cenable conservators, academics and the public to understand the objects [i.e. the tombs] in deeper and more objective ways.\u201d This is hardly the first time, though, that this sort of claim has been made in relation to pharaonic-era tombs in Luxor. Alexandre Stoppelaere, a Belgian who was one-time chief restorer of Egypt\u2019s Department of Antiquities, was responsible for promoting a pre-digital version of this sort of work in Luxor in the early 1950s, one that duly morphed into the documentary and photographic recording of Nubian temples as the Aswan High Dam threatened to flood them all. There is always another level of objective conservation, always another layer of intervention in the social lives of ancient remains. Factum\u2019s work is mind-boggling, but something will supersede it and keep the heritage enterprise moving: it always does, even as older methods of documentation, paper and photographic, continue to prosper in the background.<\/p>\n

Likewise, as the demands of global tourism intensify, so people\u2019s homes will continue to be demolished in order to create a purer, more \u201cauthentic\u201d experience of the ancient past. If Luxor shows anything, it is that interventions like these keep on coming, even as tourists themselves seem unimpressed by them. The question, then, is who, if anyone, are these interventions for?<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Art historian William Carruthers explores the modern city of Luxor and the ancient site of Thebes along the Nile.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":369,"featured_media":25946,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[2386,51,2385,1],"tags":[555,2525,1580,1713,2383,2526],"coauthors":[2524],"class_list":["post-25932","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cities","category-tmr-weekly","category-travel","category-uncategorized","tag-egypt","tag-luxor","tag-sisi","tag-travel","tag-travel-photography","tag-valley-of-the-kings","entry"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nIn Luxor, Egypt Projects Renewed Tourism Economy - The Markaz Review<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Art historian William Carruthers explores the modern city of Luxor and the ancient site of Thebes along the Nile.\" 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