{"id":36806,"date":"2025-05-02T11:16:26","date_gmt":"2025-05-02T09:16:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/?p=36806"},"modified":"2025-05-02T11:16:26","modified_gmt":"2025-05-02T09:16:26","slug":"a-letter-to-my-cruel-lover-tripoli","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/a-letter-to-my-cruel-lover-tripoli\/","title":{"rendered":"A Letter To My Cruel Lover: Tripoli"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5><em><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A Letter To My Cruel Lover: Tripoli<\/span><\/em><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">\u00a0by Lara Kassem employs <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Traboulsi <\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">words, i.e. Arabic from Tripoli, Lebanon, such as <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">m\u2019ragbieh<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> for lemons; <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">artal<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, a basket with a string, and a sobriquet for the city, <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Um al Fakir, Trablous<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">. More familiar Arabic words that appear in the prose\/poem are: <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ghurbe<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, foreignness or estrangement; <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">haraa<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, your street in a neighborhood; and <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">zankha<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, a bad, almost fishy smell. \u201cThe bullets that rained down on us from Jabal Mohsen\u201d refers to a conflict between two neighborhoods, Bab-al-Tabbaneh and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.unicef.org\/lebanon\/media\/1451\/file\/Jabal%20Mohsen%20Neighborhood.pdf\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Jabal Mohsen<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, which began in 1976 during the Lebanese Civil War, and lasted 25 years after the war ended, in 2015.<\/span><\/h5>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4>Lara Kassem<\/h4>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I left one <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ghurbe<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> for another.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I missed you, my Tripoli, so I sought another.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Here they always ask, Syrian?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">No, I say, Lebanese.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And their faces light up like it\u2019s the better answer.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I know what they\u2019re thinking.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Beirut, glamour, Switzerland of the East, loud laughter over mezze,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">girls with confidence and French-tipped nails.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A Lebanese girl, fun, open-minded,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">who drinks arak by the sea,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">who wears her hair in a chic manner,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">who speaks in that flirty accent they\u2019ve heard in songs and movies.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But I am not from the Lebanon they know.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I am not from Beirut.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I am from Tripoli, and somehow, that changes everything.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The moment I say it, the energy shifts.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Tripoli? they repeat, like they heard wrong,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">like they are waiting for me to correct myself.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I don\u2019t.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">To outsiders, Tripoli is Libya because why would they know Lebanon has a second city?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And to many in Lebanon, Tripoli is another world entirely.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Um al-Fakir<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, mother of the poor, they call you, remembered only when it makes the news for all the wrong reasons, of course. Tripoli is the name they see on the highway signs, as they head to Batroun, to Byblos, a sign they glance at like street decoration, but never really notice. Never getting too close. Never stepping foot. Only remembering it exists when it burns.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I want to be the fun Lebanese girl they expect.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But how can I when all I think about is you, Tripoli, the past, the present, and the future?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I think of the bullets that rained down on us from Jabal Mohsen and the girl who is forever swinging in my head, frozen in time.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I think of my family, who know so little about me, and I think of uncertainty.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">You know, Tripoli, I try and tell them about you.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I tell them of your <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">m\u2019ragbieh<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, your lemons, your long beaches, and I even introduce them to Abou Ali, your son, the river that splits through the city like a forgotten artery.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But somehow, in their ears, I am speaking of pain.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Maybe because when wounds have not healed, the mouth cannot stay silent.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I didn\u2019t mean to.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It started with me asking a man if Marrakesh was safe.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But somehow, I ended up telling on you.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">He was surprised.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And honestly, so was I.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Oh, Tripoli, I did not know how people react to you.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I came to Morocco because I missed your warmth, your people.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I wanted to meet the men and women Abdellah Ta\u00efa writes about,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">the ones who remind me of you.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I should not have expected him to know you.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If even the people in Beirut barely acknowledge you, why would a Moroccan?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And the more I spoke with Moroccans, the less Lebanese I felt.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I could not see myself, my city, in their version of Lebanon.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">In my Lebanon, mezze belongs to the past, and laughter fades before it lands.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">We are the poorest city of the Mediterranean, they say.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Um al-Fakir, do not forget!<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">There is no arak by the sea, only children fishing,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">because hunger has made the ocean their only feast.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">My Tripoli breathes gunpowder,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">echoes with shattered prayers,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">the city where mosques are bombed and streets get emptied.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How can my Lebanon be their Lebanon?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Maybe I should have just said yes and let them believe I&#8217;m from Syria.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">With a simple yes, they would already think of exile, struggle, and injustice.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And yet, isn\u2019t that what I carry too?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Maybe it&#8217;s a half-lie, I&#8217;m from Syria, the street, not the country.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How is it that I, a Lebanese, am seen as different from Nada from Hama?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">What is the difference between us?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Our stories mirror each other.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Both in exile, both in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ghurbe<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, forced to carry on,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">our minds occupied by our cities, their neighbors, the entire Bilad al-Sham, and the world.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Friendships fill many voids in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ghurbe<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, but sometimes, Nada is not enough.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And then there was Zakariae.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A Moroccan. Tall. From Meknes.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A rough voice and polished shoes, which I promptly stepped on.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Zakariae, who spoke French to his parents growing up,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">while I do not speak a word.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">He sure can be loved, a nice man indeed.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But it\u2019s almost like oil and water.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">He belongs to the money-hungry generation of the Middle East,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">where poverty belongs to others,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">where houses, skyscrapers, and status are the only currency that matters,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">where the idea of a poor city is a repellent, a plague to be avoided.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I wonder, was it the idea of a Lebanese girl that made him speak to me?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And here I am, just craving anything Arab.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But even if he wanted to, how could he love what he does not understand?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How do I introduce you, my Tripoli, when even the tip of your iceberg scares them?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Can I take him to Souk Bab al-Rammel,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">where even the smells fight, at times, spices vs. <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">zankha<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">others, garbage vs. fresh produce?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Bab al-Rammel, your walls breathe stories of trade and time.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Remember your golden days, Tripoli?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Can I take him to the <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">haraa<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> where everyone is ever so curious?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">To my neighborhood, where the coffee shops will act as interrogation rooms?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Is he man enough for the daughter of the <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">haraa<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Can he sit where rooftops sag under the weight of old wars?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Where children play in alleyways lined with bullet-pierced walls?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Where the scent of Hergel frying falafel fights the stench of sewage?<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Where hunger lingers like an unwanted guest?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">If even the Lebanese do not want to claim you, my city, how could he?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The questions in my head circle back to the same conclusion.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">My heart is already spoken for.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Every time I think of love, I must self-sabotage,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">as if I once had a childhood lover to whom I made a sacred promise.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The lover is you, Tripoli.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But Tripoli, you cannot deprive me of love.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Maybe I am meant to fall in love in Lebanon,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">find my soulmate, my <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">nasib<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> within your borders.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Is that too much to ask?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It feels like the last fragile string of hope tying me to you, Tripoli.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I am your <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">artal<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, the basket tied to your balcony, just like in the <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">haraa<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Thrown out when someone is too lazy to collect something from below.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Getting tossed out is the shortcut, an act of convenience.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Allowed to be lowered, but never fully let go.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">You tossed me out too, Tripoli.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Perhaps to retrieve me later.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But I have seen <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">artals<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> that carried too much,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">the string snapped, forever severed from the balcony.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Maybe the man I\u2019ll love lives in Tripoli, waiting unknowingly for me.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Maybe he\u2019ll be the answer to the brilliant idea of staying, of making you home again.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">But reality has other plans.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Reality sees me not as a heart but as a passport.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">A waving flag of dark red and gold.<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The girl who opens doors to anywhere but you.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">To some, I am not a person but a glowing dollar sign,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">a promise of escape, of security, of a life far from your crumbling streets, lemons, <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">m\u2019ragbieh<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">And if I were to fall in love in <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">ghurbe<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, in exile, what then?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Love feels like both a key and a chain,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">pulling me closer to or further from you.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How can I belong to you, Tripoli,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">when even love feels like it must betray you?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">How can I be yours,<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"><br \/>\n<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">when the world keeps calling me away?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Trablous, Um al-Fakir<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, I am glad to be spoken for.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>My Tripoli breathes gunpowder, \/\/ \u2026 the city where mosques are bombed and streets get emptied. \/\/ \u2026 How can my Lebanon be their Lebanon?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":930,"featured_media":36921,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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