{"id":36728,"date":"2025-05-02T11:16:25","date_gmt":"2025-05-02T09:16:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/?p=36728"},"modified":"2025-05-02T11:16:25","modified_gmt":"2025-05-02T09:16:25","slug":"the-anger-and-sadness-i-brought-back-from-damascus-and-the-urge-to-shave-my-head","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/the-anger-and-sadness-i-brought-back-from-damascus-and-the-urge-to-shave-my-head\/","title":{"rendered":"The anger and sadness I brought back from Damascus. And the urge to shave my head"},"content":{"rendered":"<blockquote>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I left Damascus ten years ago, when I was 16 years old and never returned. I spent the majority of those ten years in Naarm (Melbourne, Australia) reconstructing what home is, building and demolishing, remembering and forgetting, looking in mirrors and recognizing new sets of eyes.<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h4><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Batoul Ahmad<\/span><\/h4>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">It has been 65 days since I left Damascus for the second time. I think about shaving my head every single day, and stare at random grocery bags in my kitchen while denying the looming panic attacks. I have been breaking down and bursting in tears since December 8, 2024. The tears might scar at some point, but nothing compares to crying in Damascus. Tears make sense in Damascus.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I bought a new visual diary that I have dedicated to \u201cthe return\u201d at the beginning of January 2025 after the fall of the Assad regime and before booking a flight to Damascus. I left Damascus ten years ago, when I was 16 years old and never returned. I spent the majority of those ten years in Naarm (Melbourne, Australia) reconstructing what home is, building and demolishing, remembering and forgetting, looking in mirrors and recognizing new sets of eyes.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I was only able to identify that those eyes belonged to my different exiled selves when I started preparing for this return.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">You don\u2019t return as one. You return as many \u2014 tears, streets, slaps, scars, dreams, screams, and suitcases. I felt nauseated every time I thought of all the places I wanted to visit, and I wanted to disappear before even getting there. I was swallowed by enormous emotional doors, opening and closing so quickly in my head. I felt like I could almost smell the rain or the jasmine. But then \u2014 \u201cI shut my eyes, and all the world drops dead,\u201d \u2014 Sylvia Plath. I have forgotten how it feels to be in Damascus, as if I had never been there at all.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">When I started working on my visual diary, I did some research on artists who returned to their home countries after a period of exile. I found an installation entitled <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/universes.art\/en\/nafas\/articles\/2003\/emily-jacir\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Where We Come From<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, 2001-2003<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> by Emily Jacir. A Palestinian artist asked Palestinians in exile: \u201cIf I could do anything for you, anywhere in Palestine, what would it be?\u201d She gathered all the answers and went to Palestine and did everything they asked her to do and documented it through photography. I thought of all the Syrians wishing to return to Syria who are stuck in exile because of travel documents and other restrictions. I remembered friends who mentioned places or names of streets that I\u2019ve never been to in Damascus or that I couldn\u2019t recall.<\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\"><strong>I\u2019ve carried an imaginary construction site in my head for the past ten years \u2014 constantly building and demolishing homes. The building was never complete, never polished. Just scattered bricks, always shifting, always unfinished.<\/strong><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">John Locke wrote: \u201cA person\u2019s identity only reaches as far as their memory in the past.\u201d Reading that made me feel like a distorted freak. There was always something missing or ambiguous in my memory of Damascus, which later made me feel like I had never really been there. I hadn\u2019t been to Qudsaya* before \u2014 and yet \u201c<\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/XQI_zuqbpjY\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Qudsaya<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">,\u201d the song by <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/open.spotify.com\/artist\/1YrqzJ3ybIn2gpmGuvpFWO\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Kulna Sawa<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">, has always been one of my favorites. I related to friends who lived there through that song. Relating to other Syrians in exile felt so important to me, because I could see how we are deprived of completing our Syrian portraits \u2014 depending on when we left Syria and how old we were. I finally visited Qudsaya when I returned to Damascus, and now I can see it when I close my eyes. Like the way I see Mazbouta caf\u00e9 and <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.muenchner-kammerspiele.de\/en\/wir\/8084-oussama-ghanam\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Dr. Oussama Ghanam<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> sitting there with the biggest heart and warmest smile. I sewed part of the self-portrait.<\/span><\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-36728 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-3.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-3-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-36925\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-3-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-3-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-36925'>\n\t\t\t\tAll illustrations by Batoul Ahmad (courtesy of the artist).\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-4.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-4-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-36924\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-4-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-4-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-4-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-36924'>\n\t\t\t\tScreenshot\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-5.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-5-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-5-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-5-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-5-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-6.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-6-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-6-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-6-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Batoul-Ahmad-6-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Returning to Damascus was not simply returning home. I\u2019ve carried an imaginary construction site in my head for the past ten years \u2014 constantly building and demolishing homes. The building was never complete, never polished. Just scattered bricks, always shifting, always unfinished. But the moment I landed in Damascus, the construction stopped. For the first time, I gave up on gathering those scattered bricks in my head. Damascus was an open space for grief, the imaginary one they tell you about in therapy. The safest and scariest space for grief. You grieve the time, the people, the leftovers of who you were, and no one could ever hold you as tightly as your exiled selves do. They recognize you and your pain, while no one ever could in Damascus. I don\u2019t remember how many times I wept in the streets. Basically, every time I realized that I am in Damascus, I broke down.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Traumas embody Damascus. I couldn\u2019t take in the city without this crushing sadness of <\/span><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">what-ifs<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and seeing silhouettes of people I don\u2019t know \u2014 people who were killed, kidnapped, tortured, and forcibly disappeared. The absence of the regime and its monsters in the city is captivating, almost unbelievable. Yet, the trauma lingers like street dust \u2014 rising, swirling, and settling upon you as you walk. Who said we can\u2019t mourn and stand in sadness and grief for a while just to realize what has happened? Am I a killjoy? I might be. But I couldn\u2019t help but think of all the scenarios that could have saved the people who are no longer with us, and the people who are still with us but in fragments. I carry their sorrow with me. I carry every single person whose story I\u2019ve heard. I have been carrying and carrying for ten long years, playing Chavela Vargas\u2019s <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/OanOkaXRvoM\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Paloma Negra<\/span><\/i><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> in my head and weeping like her. I remembered Vargas in Damascus, when I saw an old lady in Al Marja Square, sitting on a chair and holding a radio playing a religious hymn up to her ear, praying with her other hand to God. I wanted to mourn like Vargas next to that old lady. My exiled selves help me make sense of pain as they walk with me. One of them reminded me of Vargas, and another reminded me of Joan Mitchell\u2019s paintings when I almost broke down five hours before my flight to Damascus. Picturing pain gives you the ability to grab it \u2014 and that is better than pain grabbing you by the throat. I guess.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Being a woman in Damascus makes you angry, makes you want to fight, scream, bleed with pain and anger. Pain and anger. And anger. Political, social and patriarchal violence against women is very visible in every aspect of women\u2019s daily lives and everyone around them is complicit with this violence. I haven\u2019t sat with a single woman in Damascus without feeling like I might explode from frustration after hearing their stories and the struggles they have faced before and after the fall of the Assad regime. Yet they remain the strongest of all. Their strength held me tightly every time we had coffee. Coffee in Damascus tasted salty all the time.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I have been thinking of death a lot since coming back from Damascus \u2014 my own death. As if Damascus has reminded me of the fact. Especially during the last two days of my visit, I was saying goodbye to people feeling that being abroad is not what is going to stop me from visiting or seeing them again \u2014 but death. I am traumatized by farewells. It started at a very young age, and I am well aware of it. About a year ago, I noticed that I had begun dissociating during goodbyes \u2014 maybe as a defense mechanism (one of my exiled selves?). Farewells feel like peeling my skin off \u2014 willingly. Every day since I left Damascus again, has felt like one long farewell that hasn\u2019t ended yet. Like writing about Damascus now.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-size: 14px;\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">* <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Qudasaya<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> was a <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.cbc.ca\/news\/world\/aleppo-return-district-1070-1.3860115\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">rebel stronghold under Assad<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and underwent a four-year siege. After the fall of the regime, Israel <\/span><a href=\"https:\/\/www.syriahr.com\/en\/349239\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">bombed<\/span><\/a><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> the town. <\/span><b>[Ed]<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Batoul Ahmad, during a ten-year absence from Damascus, reconstructs her sense of home through memory and self-discovery in Australia.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":922,"featured_media":36926,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-4)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[12,4352],"tags":[479,4375,1119,4376],"article-category":[],"article-type":[],"coauthors":[4377],"class_list":["post-36728","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-essay","category-tmr-50-returning-home","tag-damascus","tag-exiled-selves","tag-memory","tag-traumas"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v25.5 (Yoast SEO v27.4) - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-premium-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>The anger and sadness I brought back from Damascus. 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