{"id":28057,"date":"2023-10-23T09:13:06","date_gmt":"2023-10-23T07:13:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/?p=28057"},"modified":"2023-10-23T09:13:06","modified_gmt":"2023-10-23T07:13:06","slug":"ode-to-khartoum-a-city-riven-by-civil-war","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/ode-to-khartoum-a-city-riven-by-civil-war\/","title":{"rendered":"Ode to Khartoum\u2014a City Riven by Civil War"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5>The first Sudanese civil war flickered on and off from 1955 to 1972. A second civil war ignited in 1983 and rumbled into 2005. Now, following last year&#8217;s Blue Nile clashes, a new outbreak began in April between government forces, the SAF, and a paramilitary group, the RSF. Other factions have since joined in. Ordinary Sudanese, meanwhile, are leaving, while others are returning to try to save the country.<\/h5>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h5>Dallia Abdel-Moniem<\/h5>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Khartoum works and moves at its own pace. It is a sprawling city made up of the triumvirate of Omdurman, Bahri, and old Khartoum. Each part of the triumvirate has its own unique characteristics; they are separate yet joined at the seams by its inhabitants and the long snaking arm of the Nile River. Omdurman is the original capital, and Khartoum is\/was the new one that has expanded with the construction of new neighborhoods. To reach either Omdurman, Bahri or Khartoum we have to cross bridges, such that each is seen as its own city within a city.<\/p>\n<p>My home city is warm and welcoming yet notoriously selfish and harsh, and when temperatures hit the 50 Celsius mark and no shade is found, it can be unforgiving. Deeply misunderstood and unknown by the outside world, if you peel away the layers there is so much depth and the city offers hidden gems. We Sudanese all surged to it, seeking and making a home amongst its broken roads, worn-down infrastructure, and unforgiving temperament. It welcomed millions from myriad backgrounds, those seeking refuge and a better life.<\/p>\n<div class=\"ose-youtube ose-uid-ffdc76b00f5a091df71d9bb24ff5a112 ose-embedpress-responsive\" style=\"width:600px; height:550px; max-height:550px; max-width:100%; display:inline-block;\" data-embed-type=\"Youtube\"><iframe loading=\"lazy\" allowFullScreen=\"true\" title=\"What\u2019s happening in Sudan after three months of war? | Start Here\" width=\"600\" height=\"550\" src=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/embed\/yic2M_YLbes?feature=oembed&color=red&rel=0&controls=1&start=&end=&fs=0&iv_load_policy=0&autoplay=0&mute=0&modestbranding=0&cc_load_policy=1&playsinline=1\" frameborder=\"0\" allow=\"accelerometer; encrypted-media;accelerometer;autoplay;clipboard-write;gyroscope;picture-in-picture clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share\" referrerpolicy=\"strict-origin-when-cross-origin\" allowfullscreen><\/iframe><\/div>\n<p>It wasn\u2019t paradise but it was home: a melting pot of people who straddled so many diverse backgrounds \u2014 African, Arab, Muslim, Coptic, Christian. A place with dozens of dialects and languages yet metaphorically, we all spoke with one tongue. In Khartoum, Christmas and the Moulid were celebrated with fervor, and church bells and the mosque\u2019s call to prayer both sounded. The city was a party town from December through late January with weddings, events, and religious celebrations. If you weren\u2019t there, you were missing out.<\/p>\n<p>Speak to virtually any Sudanese and he or she will cite fond memories of this city, which is now a war playground for two generals and their merry men.<\/p>\n<p>Every neighborhood in Khartoum tells a story.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-1' class='gallery galleryid-28057 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-display-in-Someet-cafe-khartoum.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-display-in-Someet-cafe-khartoum-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Art display in Someet Caf\u00e9, khartoum\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28068\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-display-in-Someet-cafe-khartoum-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-display-in-Someet-cafe-khartoum-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-display-in-Someet-cafe-khartoum-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28068'>\n\t\t\t\tArt display in Someet Caf\u00e9, Khartoum (all photos courtesy Dallia Abdel-Moniem).\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Art at Mojo Gallery.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28067\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28067'>\n\t\t\t\tArt at Mojo Gallery.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-2.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"More art at Mojo Gallery, Khartoum.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28066\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Art-at-Mojo-Gallery-2-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28066'>\n\t\t\t\tMore art at Mojo Gallery.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Someet-cafe-in-Khartoum-2.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Someet-cafe-in-Khartoum-2-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Someet Caf\u00e9 in Khartoum.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28065\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Someet-cafe-in-Khartoum-2-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Someet-cafe-in-Khartoum-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Someet-cafe-in-Khartoum-2-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28065'>\n\t\t\t\tSomeet Caf\u00e9 in Khartoum.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-sign-carried-by-the-author-during-one-of-the-protests.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-sign-carried-by-the-author-during-one-of-the-protests-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28059\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-sign-carried-by-the-author-during-one-of-the-protests-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-sign-carried-by-the-author-during-one-of-the-protests-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-sign-carried-by-the-author-during-one-of-the-protests-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28059'>\n\t\t\t\tDallia brings her sign to a protest: &#8220;Freedom, Peace, Justice.&#8221;\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"The Acropole Hotel in downtown Khartoum\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28061\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/The-Acropole-Hotel-in-downtown-Khartoum.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28061'>\n\t\t\t\tThe Acropole Hotel in downtown Khartoum.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Nabil-Souk-Markazi.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Nabil-Souk-Markazi-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Young nabil in the Souq Markazi.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28062\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Nabil-Souk-Markazi-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Nabil-Souk-Markazi-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/Nabil-Souk-Markazi-100x100.jpg 100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28062'>\n\t\t\t\tYoung Nabil in the Souq Markazi.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"El Nilein mosque, Khartoum.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28063\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/El-Nilein-mosque.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28063'>\n\t\t\t\tEl Nilein mosque, Khartoum.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum.jpg'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum-150x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"Khartoum street mural.\" aria-describedby=\"gallery-1-28064\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum-100x100.jpg 100w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/street-mural-Khartoum.jpg 750w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<figcaption class='wp-caption-text gallery-caption' id='gallery-1-28064'>\n\t\t\t\tKhartoum street mural.\n\t\t\t\t<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>El <a href=\"https:\/\/twitter.com\/ThisIsAfricaTIA\/status\/1486637846953963522\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Bashdar<\/a> stop was where we\u2019d all congregate, and at 1pm sharp the protest would start heading towards the Presidential Palace. Wad Nubawi in Omdurman was where we were chased by security personnel firing tear gas at our protest back in 2018. Burri was our point of entry to the sit-in at the General Command in 2019. Shari\u2019 El Matar was where so many of us celebrated the fall of the dictatorship in 2019.<\/p>\n<p>Having tea at sunset in El Mugran was a must. The confluence of the Blue and the White Niles was a sight to be seen. That precise juncture where the two different colored bodies of water meet is known as <a href=\"https:\/\/www.frontlineclub.com\/the-longest-kiss-independence-separation-and-conflict-in-the-worlds-newest-country\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">\u201cthe longest kiss,\u201d<\/a> with Tuti Island in the background and the architectural dream that is the <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/Ha-rXQyNRF0\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Nilein Mosque<\/a> (meaning the two Niles) up ahead. For a short period of time, you were lulled into a sense of security and serenity, two senses that were very hard to come by.<\/p>\n<p>Most nights the air would be filled with the sounds of a wedding celebration, a singer crooning old and new Sudanese songs with ululations ringing out loud and clear. The continuous power cuts made sound travel clearer, though sometimes the generators caused more ruckus. The caf\u00e9s, from the high-end ones offering fancy pastries to those that grew out of a tea lady\u2019s stall where everything from sweet tea, cardamon, and ginger-flavored coffee to freshly fried lugaimat sprinkled with powder sugar were served from sunrise until the late hours of the night, was where we met, talked, planned, laughed, and bemoaned the state of our country. The conversations were free-flowing and most times you\u2019d bump into someone you knew or would forge new relationships and contacts.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_28060\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-28060\" style=\"width: 960px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-28060\" src=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-female-vender-selling-nuts-960pix.jpg\" alt=\"A female vendor selling nuts, Khartoum.\" width=\"960\" height=\"720\" srcset=\"https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-female-vender-selling-nuts-960pix.jpg 960w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-female-vender-selling-nuts-960pix-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-female-vender-selling-nuts-960pix-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/themarkaz.org\/oldmarkaz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/09\/A-female-vender-selling-nuts-960pix-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 960px) 100vw, 960px\" \/><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-28060\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A female vendor selling nuts, Khartoum (courtesy Dallia Abdel-Moniem).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I had the best barbequed meat in my life at <a href=\"https:\/\/www.saveur.com\/article\/Travels\/Khartoums-Barbecue-Hot-Spot\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Kandahar<\/a>, a livestock market well beyond the city\u2019s boundaries. When I queried why it was called that, I was asked where Kandahar is located. \u201cAfghanistan,\u201d I replied. \u201cExactly; it\u2019s so far away from Khartoum and so is this place,\u201d came the explanation. The ground was sprayed with water to make it cooler; beds and benches were laid out for the ubiquitous post-food coma, and the meat was slow-grilled as our stomachs grumbled, demanding to be fed. Camel liver was marinated in lime, chili, salt, and pepper, and served as a delicious appetizer. Our grilled beef was served with freshly baked baladi bread, a garden salad, pan fried sheep liver and kidneys in a garlicky sauce, our infamous <a href=\"https:\/\/www.khaleejtimes.com\/uae\/ramadan-recipe-of-the-day-peanut-butter-salad-dakwa-salad\">dakwa<\/a> (peanut butter) salad dip, and a <em>shatta<\/em> (chili dip) so fiery it stops just short of being inedible. It\u2019s where we plotted our next moves to bring about change to our country. Food and conversations \u2014 the best combo. The ideas flowed.<\/p>\n<p>The <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/_huGYUcWJ58\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">souqs of Omdurman<\/a>, El Markazi, El Shaabi, and Saad Gishra were where you found anything you could think of, from the freshest produce to household items, knick knacks, fashion fabrics, and accessories. Souq Omdurman especially was something special and unique, the oldest and largest market. The best spices were found there, their pungent smells sending you into a sneezing fit while the shopkeepers laughingly teased you for being so \u201cdelicate.\u201d The alleyways were lined with shops selling Sudanese ornaments, from ebony figurines and carpets from the Rashaida tribe in Eastern Sudan to the straw baskets and old-school household items that every Sudanese home had at one point in time \u2014 star motif-painted steel bowls and platters, the coffee gabana and cups, the woven taraqa used to cover the food tray. Every time I went, I discovered a new shop, a new alleyway filled with goodies; you never left Souq Omdurman empty-handed. But Souq Omdurman is no more. It was burned down and looted during the ongoing war.<\/p>\n<p>Back in the days of promise, when the air was electric with change, a favorite pastime of mine was to go on an art jaunt. The art scene in Sudan had taken a huge leap in the ten years since I moved back home, in 2013. Whereas earlier there were a few established names, now there was a younger, hungrier, and \u2014 dare I say \u2014 more expressive generation of artists who emerged and were making a name for themselves. I guess repression does bring out creativity in people. Using various formats, from canvases and graphic design to fashion, music, and film, Sudanese creatives were finding new ways to tell their stories. Screenings were put on for Sudanese films and documentaries, and exhibitions were held to showcase the best and the up and coming in the world of art, sculpture, and design. Jewelry designers mixed the traditional with the contemporary. The radio airwaves were filled with the sounds of a new wave of musicians who mixed the classics with their own original pieces, seamlessly weaving in AfroBeats as well as lyrical hip hop in both Arabic and English.<\/p>\n<p>And those of us who could lapped it all up. We bought into this new frenzy of creativity. We were investing in the present and in the future, in fellow Sudanese who dared to dream of something better, who told our stories in the best way possible.<\/p>\n<p>Today, those of us still back home, who couldn\u2019t and haven\u2019t left, can\u2019t keep holding down the fort for much longer. The civilian-led groups and committees have always without fail stepped in when needed and now, when the state structures in the capital have completely collapsed, they are doing jobs many can\u2019t fathom in the most trying of circumstances. They set up communal food kitchens, find and provide refuge to those escaping the raging war, serve as a medical care system, and help bury the dead when their families can\u2019t. These young Sudanese are our beacon of hope, and we are all forever indebted to them. But a tired and exhausted Khartoum can only offer so much. It gave us a lot, but it also took a lot from us.<\/p>\n<p>Nevertheless, we must start again. In the past, try as many of us did, we couldn\u2019t leave Khartoum permanently; we always rushed back to her. We came back with plans, with ideas, with the belief that this time round we would make it better. And we did for a short while. Well, we will have to do something similar again: rebuild, replan, re-live. When? No one knows. But soon, I hope. I miss my Khartoum, our Khartoum.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Dallia Abdel-Moniem has always loved her native city, but when she returned from abroad 10 years ago, it was with renewed hope for Sudan.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":438,"featured_media":28069,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center 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